March 2025 bike tour in Normandy
I found this Blog entry, half finished on my PC. So I've completed it as a record of my trip in March 2025.
Day 1 - Home to Saint Vaast, 25 March
32.6 km
An early start today, had to be checked in by 7:30, and I managed that without trauma. However, I hadn't slept well last night and that would cause me problems later. I met two other cyclists as we queued to board the ferry, Julyan and Frazer. We discovered we were all heading for Saint Vaast, and the same hotel, the Fuschias. I felt a little odd on the crossing, a bit cold and shivery and I even considered my options for bailing out if it developed into something. Thankfully, once I started riding I felt absolutely normal and I put it down to the poor sleep. Riding always makes one feel better, it's the endorphins!
I'd replanned the route for gravel riding this time and clearly did something wrong. I found i was being directed along trails that were impossible to walk let alone ride. Eventually I bailed out and stuck to roads and arrived at St Vaast about 90 minutes later than I'd expected. I was covered in mud, everything was filthy and I was knackered. After cleaning up and changing, I contacted Julyan and we arranged to dine out together. We went to one of the quayside restaurants and all ate pizza. I stuck to one small beer, knowing that any more would interrupt my recovery.
And so to bed, having arranged to meet for breakfast on Wednesday morning.
Day 2 - Saint Vaast to Saint Germain sur Ay, 26 March
61.7 km
Woke to my alarm at 6:30, showered and went for a quick walk on the quayside as I usually do when here. A grey, overcasy mizzly sort of morning, although the forecast said it would clear up later. A leisurely breakfast with Julyan and Frazer, chatting about the journeys we had planned, our backgrounds, politics etc. Eventually I got myself ready and departed at about half past ten. The planned ride would be about 60km, but again it was planned for gravel so I was aware that I needed to take control. I stayed on D roads rather than taking the coast road, and aimed myself at the route where it headed west. Eventually I was directed into a farm field, so I stopped and replanned as a road ride. This gave me a good high speed ride west across the peninsula, until I met the Voie Verte near Saint Sauveur. I headed along the trail gratefully, it's a lovely easy ride because it's a former railway line. Into Saint Sauveur and lunch at the Rideau Cramoisi, where I'd eaten last year when cycling north to Cherbourg. A lovely menu of the day, consisting of a beer, herring and potato salad, filet mignon, chocolate cake and coffee. All for €20.
Back on the bike with about 20km to go, my legs were heavy but my heart was light. I'm finding that bike touring is something I really enjoy even when it hurts. It's cycling with purpose, rather than just doing a loop from home. I arrived at the Ferme des Mares and the waiter, who checked me in, remembered my visit last summer. I showered and changed, and bumped into the owner/chef as I headed outside. I'm writing this in the garden in glorious sunshine, it feels like summer. I'm here for the food, as I told both of them, so I will document that later. Meanwhile, santé.
Dinner was wonderful:
- Warm Scotch Egg
- Chicken with vegetables and ratatouille
- Chocolate Cake with candied peanuts
Accompanied by an apple cocktail (Normandy, of course!) and Badoit water.
Day 3 - Saint Germain sur Ay to Isigny-sur-Mer, 27 March
50.7 km
I woke around 6am, showered and went for a stroll by the lake just outside the property. There was a mist which made it wonderful. I wasn't particularly hungry at breakfast, but knew I needed to fuel or I'd regret it later. Got away around 9:45 and headed off to pick up the Voie Verte running east toward Carentan. As I entered La Haye I convinced myself that the Voie Verte sign was directing me onto the wrong branch. I did my own thing and went the wrong way for about 4.5 km, then checked Google Maps and found I was heading for St Malo! Back to La Haye, where I took the correct route. I love riding these greenways because they are disused railways and therefore relatively flat. I hit some mist around the middle portion of the peninsula, which is a marshy area, and it was quite chilly there. Stopped for a protein bar, but it wasn't that enjoyable.
Arrived at Carentan feeling quite whacked - I hadn't fuelled myself properly today and was suffering. Struggled on to Isigny and messaged Julyan to agree a drink somewhere later. I arrived early at my B&B and couldn't check in, but the owner allowed me to leave my bike safely on the property. I headed to the Normandy Bar, recommended by the B&B chap and enjoyed a lunch of lamb cutlets, chips, beer, and apricot tiramisu and coffee for €20.
I took a walk around the town, took some photos and sat on the quayside. Julyan messaged to say they were close and they arrived a few minutes later. We enjoyed a couple of beers in the high street, then I headed back to the B&B while they went to their hotel in Carentan. After gaining access (I think the owner was gardening), I got my bags from the bike and showered before writing my journal. I went back into town to the Central Brasserie where I had a buckwheat crepe with smoked salmon and an apple ice cream dessert. And so to bed.
Day 4 - Isigny-sur-Mer to Saint Vaast, 28 March
56.5km
Up early to a grey damp morning. Got away quite quickly after breakfast and made good progress to Carentan. The route skirts the town and crosses a rather dodgy old planked bridge with plywood repairs! But it held up, even cars use it. Quickly into the coastal nature reserve and on toward Utah Beach at around 30km. Stopped there for lunch in the touristy café, a burger and a crème brulee.
Onward along the coast, even a bit of beach where I had to walk. Arrived mid-afternoon with a stonking sprint along the last couple of km into Saint Vaast. The lovely receptionist at the Fuschias gave me a ground floor room in the rear annex which allowed me to park my bike in the room. Showered and headed for a beer, whereupon Julyan and Frazer arrived.
I convinced them we should eat at the Chasse Maree, a small quayside restaurant that has become my favourite in Saint Vaast, Following a Ricard, I ate oysters, skate, and a charlotte dessert. And so to bed in my lovely upgraded room.
Day 5 - Saint Vaast to Cherbourg, 29 March
46.9km
My last day. Enjoyed a good breakfast, the buffet at the Fuschias is fabulous. Took a quick walk around the quay and the market. We got away around 10am, and headed via coffee in Barfleur to Gatteville lighthouse. Then it was a hard slog over to Cherbourg with no bars to stop for more coffee. Had a quick snack lunch of panini and cake in the shopping centre café then off to check in to the ferry. An uneventful crossing. Julyan and I agreed we should meet up for a tour sometime in the future.
Comments
Post a Comment