I've thought of doing some bike touring for a number of years. It started some time before the world went mad in 2020, and I subscribed to a few relevant YouTube channels, eagerly devouring content and imagining myself cycling around wonderful foreign places. But I think it was all a little outside my comfort zone, so it never progressed to a real plan. Then Betty became ill with cancer, the pandemic arrived, and any related plans were consigned to the back of my mind.
Four years later, I have several driving trips to Spain and France under my belt, and a full Camino walked in Spain. I decided that I'd managed to extend my comfort zone to include real adventures, so I splashed out on expensive but excellent bike touring luggage from TailFin for my gravel bike. That was quite an incentive to get on and ride somewhere, so I quickly put together a 5-day trip to Normandy and booked the ferries and hotels. Some might say that I should have camped, but I respond that I've earned the luxury of hotel rooms at my age!
Monday 19 August - Day 1 - 29 km
Cherbourg to Quettehou
I'd set Alexa to wake me at 4:30 am, but I was already awake before she had her chance. I had to get to Poole, park my car in the ferry terminal park, load up my bike and cycle round to the ferry check in by about 06:30. That was all successful and it was with a song in my heart that I got checked in and directed to the waiting area. There were a few other cyclists and a handful of motorcyclists. It wasn't long before we were directed to the customs shed where, it seemed, everybody underwent a chat and search. I was handled by a lovely chap who asked about my trip and than asked for a quick look in whichever of my bags I preferred to open. I was on my way to the holding area for bikes and motorbikes in just a few minutes. Finally I got to do what I envy every time I take a cross channel ferry - I rode up the ramp to the ferry. It's a wonderful feeling to be off on a journey under my own steam!
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| Queuing for immigration at Cherbourg |
It was a somewhat grey day, but the crossing was smooth, and the sun started to appear as we neared Cherbourg. I was clear of French immigration with a stamp in my passport just after 2:30 pm, and I headed on my planned route to Quettehou where I was to spend my first night. This was around 30km, about 20 miles, easy enough for my first afternoon. The route rapidly took me out of urban Cherbourg into the surrounding countryside where I found myself on quiet country lanes, gravel trails and farm tracks. This is what gravel bikes are made for, and I was elated.
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| Outside my hotel room |
The hard slog I had imagined getting up the massive hill behind Cherbourg was
much easier than I'd thought. The entire ride was a little over an hour and a half, so I arrived at the hotel a little after 4 pm. I'd been given a ground floor room in an annex building, so I could easily unload my bike before taking it to the storage area further within the grounds.
I showered, washed my kit and went for a wander around the village. I've driven through Quettehou many times on my wat to St Vaast, but have never stopped there. It's a lovely place with a number of shops and just one restaurant. I made sure to be there at opening time to ensure a table. I had a lovely meal with half a dozen St Vaast oysters to start, followed by a strip steak , a cheese course, and Ile Flottante for dessert. A perfect opener for the tour. There was, however, some sadness as an elderly chap in the far corner was taken ill and had to be taken to hospital by paramedics. That did cause me some emotion as it brought back memories of Betty in her last months. Thankfully I got over it quite quickly, but it's something that we bereaved learn to accept will happen randomly.
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| Drying my cycling kit |
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| Quettehou town hall |
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| Restaurant La Chaumiere |
Tuesday 20 August - Day 2 - 77 km
Quettehou to Saint-Lô
I slept well and woke early. Packed most of my gear than went for breakfast. The weather was drizzly but the hotel lady said the rain was ending - famous last words! I set off wearing my rain jacket in persistent drizzle, but was very soon off the main roads and on the coastal path heading south toward Carentan. This was such fun, gravel trails, sandy paths through the dunes, occasional villages, and all the while to sea was just a few metres to my left. The rain came and went, I was pretty filthy but I really couldn't care less!
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| Looking back toward St Vaast |
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| In the sand dunes |
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| Slightly drenched but very happy |
Around lunchtime I arrived at Carentan and found a reasonable looking restaurant by the marina. The sun was out, so I stopped to eat lunch on the terrace. I had fish and chips, which the French do so well with their superior fries rather than British fat chips. Sated, I headed off for the second part of the journey to my destination of Saint-Lô. I quite quickly found myself on a disused canal tow path, always a good place to ride because there are no hills! However, the countryside around Saint-Lô is hilly and I did find myself struggling a little. I must say that I had been finding my fitness vastly improved this year, very likely because of all the walking I'd done for my Camino walk in Spain. So I wasn't that bothered by the hills.
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| Entering Saint-Lô |
I finally arrived at the hotel, on the southern outskirts of the town. I'd chosen it because they offered bike storage, which was more important to me than being in the heart of the town. That storage turned out to be a meeting room adjacent to the reception desk, so safe enough in my view. I showered, washed my kit, and took a large beer out to the terrace. The half litre of Affligem was stronger than I realised and I found myself a little wobbly by the time I'd finished it! I'd hope to meet a friend who lives a little further south for dinner, but she was away. So I ate in the hotel, which was OK but not memorable. It's very much a business traveller's hotel, so not a place for fine dining.
Wednesday 21 August - Day 3 - 43 km
Saint-Lô to Saint Germain-sur-Ay
This was the highlight day of my trip! I'd purposely planned a shortish ride to allow some recovery from the previous day's ride. The advice for bike touring is to keep the daily mileage fairly low to allow for sightseeing and eating along the way. The day started with a bit of a sunset viewed from my bedroom window, so I started tired but very happy. A few hills on the outskirts of Saint-Lô saw me off and walking the bike to save energy. I was carrying around 12kg of stuff in my bags, and that was very noticeable as I rode.
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| The church at Lozon |
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| Shrine at Marigny-le-Lozon |
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| On the Voie Verte |
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| Old building remains outside Saint Germain |
Along the way I encountered a delightful roadside shrine, enjoyed coffee and cake in Periers, and rode a section of Voie Verte, the repurposed disused railway lines in France. I'd left the hotel at about 9am, so wasn't hurrying at all. I emerged from a farm track to a sight that I can only describe as Keyhaven on steroids! The most delightful saltmarsh landscape, with sand dunes in the distance past the village of Saint Germain-sur-Ay. My heart sang again as I slowly made my way to my hotel. I had arrived very early for check-in, but the owner/chef was around and he sorted everything out for me. He explained that dinner would be a single menu with no choices, based on what he had been delivered by his suppliers. This suited me fine, I eat just about anything.
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| The saltmarshes at Saint Germain-sur-Ay |
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| Arrival at the hotel |
I unloaded my bike, washed my kit and set off to walk the coastal path along the estuary to the seaside village where I could get a bite for lunch. What a fantastic walk, around 10km in total, through the saltmarsh and sand dunes to the seaside. I found a bar/restaurant but the kitchen had closed and all I could eat were oysters and desserts. That suited this seafood lover just fine! Along the walk there is an old watchtower, which a local photographer captures amazingly. I must go back and spend some time there with my full camera gear.
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| Opus enjoying the cotton grass |
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| Oysters and Tarte Tatin - that'll do nicely |
Back at the hotel, a small beer in view of the previous evening's mistake, and dinner. This was a real treat, fine dining at its best and well worth recording here.
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Oeuf Mollet, Crème Dubarry glacée, Pickles de Légumes
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| Risotto aux algues, Moules, Poulpe Grillé, Lieu Jaune, Bouillon Thaï |
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| Fruits de la Passion, Vanille, Maugue |
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| The menu is written daily on this mirror |
I retired to bed very happy!
Thursday 22 August - Day 4 - 73 km
Saint Germain-sur-Ay to Cherbourg
My last full day cycling, I'd planned to spend the last day in Cherbourg as insurance against unexpected events. Probably too cautious for such a short trip, but it was my first time, so ...
I knew I'd be riding a fair proportion of today on Voie Verte, and that would be relatively flat and easy. I left around 10am, it was a little cool so I was wearing a jacket. A few kilometres got me to the entry point to the Voie Verte and I was off making good speed. The French authorities have provide an excellent surface on these trails, it's as hard as tarmac but made from hard packed grit. I don't know why we surface trails with larger gravel here, it's much harder to cycle on. Some of the old railway cottages along the route have been beautifully restored.
I stopped for lunch in Saint-Sauveur, at a typical town centre bar restaurant. I ate the daily menu of herring with potato salad, fish & chips, clafoutis. Lots of protein and energy needed for the day's ride!
The weather warmed up as I re-joined the Voie Verte and I discarded my jacket. I was starting to feel a great improvement in my fitness this day. I put it down to all the walking I'd done for my Camino preparation, because I hadn't been cycling much since the beginning of the year.
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| One of my favourite images from the trip - Middle Earth! |
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| Château des Ravalet |
The ride was a bit tough as I approached Cherbourg, that dratted hill had to be crossed again! I transferred to the Eurovelo Route 4, which I think skirted around the highest parts and found myself heading back along the same roads along which I left Cherbourg on Monday. It wasn't long before I was in town and searching out my hotel. This was another chosen because of their safe bike storage facility.
The rain had set in properly by the time I arrived, so after unloading, and storing my bike I took a damp wander around Cherbourg. I ate supper on the quay at one of my usual restaurants when I'm passing through. Seafood platter to start, a fish curry, and a Baba Normand for dessert. Sated, I retired to bed.
Friday 23 August - Day 4 - Sightseeing and home
No cycling today, I simply walked around Cherbourg and ate a baguette for lunch.
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| YMCA 😀 |
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| Les Parapluies de Cherbourg |
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| Les Parapluies de Cherbourg |
Mid afternoon I returned to the hotel, changed into cycle kit and headed for the port. When I arrived I met a young chap who'd been ion a short tour himself. He's a graphic designer and he works for GCN (Global Cycling Network), a fantastic media resource for those interested in cycling. We talked about our adventures and shared stories during the crossing, Arrival at Poole was after dark, but I just had to potter round to the car park and load my bike into my car for the drive home.
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| Goodbye France, I'll return soon! |
A fantastic adventure, and I'm already planning a follow up in my head. Watch this space!
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